Allt skrivet av JohnRB
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Nä, nu snöar det igen
http://norskmustangclub.no/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1586
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Louvers & Rear spoiler
Tja, jag vil ju inte forstøra nån orginal hastighetsmetare. Det finns orginala hastighetsmetare i km/h men dom er jo inte så der letta att hitta. Jag har redan en forstørd (ombygd til km/h) hastighetsmetare i min bil. Om jag hittar en orginal så bytar jag direkt. Om du kan undvika att kladda til din orginale så..... Nu når du får hem en riktig bil så er du vel lite intereserad av; http://428cobrajet.com/ Hilsen John
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Louvers & Rear spoiler
Va bra John
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Louvers & Rear spoiler
http://www.cal-mustang.com/showdetl-7-2780-19-0.html http://www.metropartsmarket.com/catalog ... _3063.html http://www.metropartsmarket.com/catalog ... _3060.html http://www.metropartsmarket.com/catalog ... _3064.html http://www.metropartsmarket.com/catalog ... _3061.html http://www.metropartsmarket.com/catalog ... _3062.html http://www.mustangunlimited.com/itemdy0 ... 44268AR+01 Lenkene over er til var du kan se bilder og bestille deler. Jag har satt dit dom for at du kan jamføra med dina deler. Kom i håg att repro gångjernen inte er helt exakt som orginalet. Dock er det en fordel med repro. Dom er gjort i rostfritt! Så lite historia ;-) Båda Rear Louvers (Part# c9zz-6344268-a og merkt 1 - 6) og vingen var ett orginaltilbehør som endast kom fabriksleverad på Boss 302. Dom kunne leveras av dealeren men dom var inte utannonserad som nåt option til den ”vanliga” Mustangen. Men det spelar vel inte nån roll, dom er ju tuffa endå…. For øvrig var Rear Louvers olagligt i några stater i USA! Når det gjelder vingen, så finns det en for 69 og en annan for 1970. Skillnad? 69 an sjunker med tiden lite på midten. Den for 1970 var lite forsterkt, men då blev den lite tung. Av den orsak fikk 1970 Mustangen som var orginalleverad med vinge ett stag som var monterad i baklukan. Her er lite mera att lese i emnet; http://www.fomoco.com/mustang-forum/thread.asp?ID=90517 http://www.fomoco.com/mustang-forum/thread.asp?ID=55383 http://fomoco.com/mustang-forum/thread.asp?ID=90451 Det rekker vel nu? John
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Louvers & Rear spoiler
På Mustangen er det festad med gångjern i taket. Orginalt finns det isatt två styck nitmuttrar i taket nær bilen blev tilverkad for att festa gångjernen i. Detta finns også att kjøpa som eftermarknadskit. Har lite tid just nu, så jag får ta det lite senare. John
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Louvers & Rear spoiler
http://www.boss302.com/board/viewthread ... &TID=16682
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En Svensk som va "lite" for hård på gasen!
http://aolsvc.news.aol.com/news/article ... 0000000001
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Cleveland toppar 4V
9J30 (eller 9J3D) 9J29 Detta er datumkoder. 9J30. Betyr 30 September 1969 eller 1979. John
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Bättre begagnat
Den bilen er jo ny! Denna er mycket betre begagnat;-)
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Byta från 302 till 429
Nei, en TRENGER inte va duktig på att meka, men det hjelper.... Det som trengs MEST, er "pyttesmå" hender JohnRB
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Rev ner bakaxeln idag...
DIF 4F24 = Dearborn Iron Foundry 24 Juni 1964 eller 1974. Mest trolig 1964. "Lite" info om 8/9" bakaxel her; http://www.kevinstang.com/Ninecase.htm Lite mere info her; http://www.fomoco.com/forummain/thread.asp?ID=101418 JohnRB
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Överhäng baklucka
Tja, det kansje hjelper med en Mustang Body assembly manual? http://www.mustangdepot.com/graphics/ca ... %20manual'
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Byta från 302 till 429
Bara så du vet. Å få dit grenrør/ headers er en mardrøm du ALDRIG vil upprepa!!!!! Jag lovar. Har bytt från headers til orginal grenrør på min 428 Musse. Tok 8 dagers mekande med ALT tilgjengligt verktyg!!!!!Visseligen bare på kveldstid, men endå! Va blodig til akselen!!!! Skal inte dra hela historien hvad som skulle til, bare lite...... Efter 6 dagers mekande for att få ut headersen, kneppade det til i skallen!!! Fram med el bågfil!!!!!!!!!!! 1 timme senare var hedersen ute. 2 dagers mekande for att få inn orginal grenrør. Byte av startmotor, bromsservo og annat er en vansinnig mardrøm! Tendstift. Fy *£$€****** Om du absolutt vil ha dit en 429 (Tilhør 385 familien og har inte nåt med 428 att gøra. 428 tilhør FE), tenk deg om minst 3 gånger. Om du inte er jetteduktig på att meka, vil jag avråda. Varfor? Risken er att du aldrig får dit skiten, og inte har nån bil att åka med! Personlig ville jag haft en 351W/408/427/453 John
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svängningsdämpare 428 scj -69
Har du frågat Mansfield? Titta på lenken; http://mansfieldmustang.com/EngineMechanicalp1.html Hilsen John
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Mustang historia i USA?
Du kan lese lite mere her; http://www.428cobrajet.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1453 Og ni trodde det var lett va, John
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Mustang historia i USA?
Hei Dette er saxat från Joe Sikora. Han skriver lite på 428cobrajet.com blant annet; Researching Your Car’s Past By Joe Sikora So you want to trace your car’s history? Sounds simple enough, but as they say, “it’s easy when you don’t know how!” Researching a car’s past is a slow process that often leads to frustrating dead ends. Sometimes the breakthroughs come quickly; sometimes painfully slow. Ah, but when you finally find the “missing link,” or actually contact a previous owner, the satisfaction is unbeatable! I have had mixed results researching the history of my cars over the years; here are some of the tricks (and lessons) I have learned along the way. The natural starting point would seem to be the original, selling dealership, but you can almost always rule them out for out any help. Unfortunately, even if you are lucky enough to know their name, it is doubtful that they are still in business. If they are, the dealership has probably changed hands or names, and it is very unlikely that they will still have any records or employees from when your car was new. In any case, dealerships are in the business of selling NEW cars, and probably don’t really care much about your pride and joy. I approached the original selling dealership about a decal for my 1967 Shelby GT 500. The car is a low mileage survivor, and since the dealership was still in business, I figured they’d jump at the chance to put their name back on the car. After seven phone calls, and promises from people at every level, the only way I managed to get a decal was by stopping at the dealership while I was on a business trip! Given all the pitfalls, the best way to obtain ownership history is still to contact the DMV directly. Patience is the key here; it may take you a year to exhaust all the previous records on your car. Start with your present State's DMV and work the title backwards. There is usually a minor research fee ($5-50) associated with this service, but remember this is a torturous path that can often lead to a dead end. Many States only keep records for fixed lengths of time, so as these cars get older and older, microfiche and paper records are continually being destroyed. As DMV's continue to switch more information over to computer, access to the old microfiche and paper records is getting harder and harder to dig up. States vary widely in their individual interpretation of the Privacy Act, so DMV's are by no means consistent with the degree of information they will provide. If you're lucky, you'll get copies of old applications/ titles. If you're not, you may only get a name. In any case, you certainly will not get social security or telephone numbers. When you're done in one state, just start the process all over again with the information you have learned in the next one. Keep going until you complete the search or hit the brick wall. I have included a list of phone numbers and addresses for the various State Motor Vehicle Departments, that was originally printed in November 1994 “Mustang& Fords.” Regardless of your degree of success with the DMV, it may be next to impossible to determine all of the "actual" owners of your car. The DMV only tracks "registered" owners, and over the years, your car's title has more than likely been "skipped" or "passed" several times. Often cars are traded from one from dealer to another without record. Also, a prior owner may never have bothered to get the vehicle retitled in his name. Any one of these "actual" owners" may have had more of an impact on the history of your car than all of the "registered" owners combined! If the prior owner was in the military, veteran organizations keep excellent records of their whereabouts. Don't forget about a relative, friend or helpful club member who may live in the area you are researching. Of course, internet chat groups are a great resource nowadays. I have used private investigators, but detective work is expensive. Professionals are, well, professional, have alot of tricks and are privy to information that you just cannot get. A local detective may know things that only a local would know, or can access information that you just can't get over the phone or that would take forever to get with formal letters/requests. Given the cost of long distance phone calls, and a cross country trip or two, professional investigators may even end up being cheaper in the long run! Don’t rule out that the previous owner may be dead. A call to the Social Security Office will not get an address, but can confirm this for you. Actually contacting these previous owners is another story, and creativity is the key! Although the internet has made phone number/ email searches alot easier, I have made HUNDREDS of phone calls to people with the same name as previous owners; you never think about all the folks who have the same name across the entire country! It is even worth contacting other people with the same last name in the town, as they are often relatives or children of the previous owner. Sometimes calling on a neighbor or the new owner of the home where the previous owner used to live will get you some clues. You are out of luck with phone number/ email searches for unlisted numbers. If you have an address, but no number, a quick call to the telephone company will let you know if there is still a number for that person at that address, and if the number is unlisted. You can ask the operator to make a call to the unlisted number for you and to ask the person call you back, but it is up to the person to return your call. Request that the person call you back collect; you will have a permanent record of the phone number on your phone bill (even if its' unlisted) in case you ever want to call them in the future! I have found that most folks are as helpful as they can be, and seem fascinated that I am going to all of the trouble for an old car! People are so jaded with telephone solicitations nowadays, so don't waste their time (or yours:). Keep your introduction short and to the point. I write down my introduction, and just say it over and over to each person I call. Use something like: "Hello! My name is (use your full name), I am the present owner of an old (year/ model) and am calling to speak to Mr./ Mrs. (full name) to see if they are the same Mr./ Mrs. (full name) who used to own my car and to talk to them a little about it's history." Be upbeat, but not sickening (that's tough after you've made 100 no hit phone calls in a row!) Don't forget to properly THANK the person for their time and help even if the call was of little use to you. You’ll learn alot about people making these calls! Letters are a last ditch effort, but sometime the Post Office can actually forward them to the previous owner's new address! You can try regular mail, but I always send them certified/ return receipt requested. It gives the letter the priority it needs for the previous owner to take notice and respond. If it is a very important contact, you may try 2-3 times to make sure that your letter isn't just getting pitched in the trash, or just sitting around because the previous owner hasn't had a chance to get back to you yet. Remember, although this is very important to you, other than a touch of nostalgia, or general human kindness, there is nothing in this for the previous owner. Be polite and provide as much information as you can in your letter about yourself, and your car to jog their memory and to give credence to your request. Again, folks are so jaded with junkmail, your letter must stand out and not require too much effort on their part. I hand address them, use a question and answer form with SIMPLE, yes/ no questions and include a stamped pre-addressed envelope. Although I have never had anyone accept it, I usually include a personal check for $5-10. This is a good way to encourage response while showing your sincerity and appreciation. Some folks would rather call than fill out the form, so include your phone number and email. Let the previous owner know that they should call collect; again this makes it easy for them and will give you a permanent record of their phone number. When you finally make that all important call, be courteous, and ask the person if this is a convenient time to talk. Every previous owner, I have ever reached, was more than happy to talk about their old car, but remember your “pride and joy” may just have been another car to them! Be patient; your car is fresh in your mind, but you are asking about details on a car that someone owned a very long time ago. A few specific questions are ok, but try not to steer the conversation too much. People tend to remember generalities rather than specifics; try to ask questions that will just let the previous owner talk. You never know what will come out! If the person is open to future contact, it's a good idea to arrange to speak again in a couple weeks. Now that you have jogged their memory, the previous owner will probably be thinking about things they haven't thought of in years. Be sure to give them your phone number so they can contact you in case any interesting thoughts come to them before you talk again! Don't be disappointed if you can't complete the entire title history of your car. Historic research is largely out of your hands; no amount of creativity on your part can ever retrieve information that just doesn't exist anymore. You should be proud of what you are able to accomplish, not disappointed by what you were unable to complete. Good luck and remember to enjoy the adventure-
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Options
Hittade denne lenken; http://www.mustangspecs.com/years/67.shtml Production Numbers: Standard Convertible: 38,751 Convertible w/Bench Seats: 1,209 Luxury Convertible: 4,848 Standard Coupe: 325,853 Coupe w/Bench Seats: 8,190 Luxury Coupe: 22,228 Standard Fastback: 53,651 Luxury Fastback: 17,391 Total: 472,121 Body Styles: Coupe, Convertible, Fastback Construction: Unibody Chasis Available Engines: 200cid 6cyl 1V 120hp 289cid 2V V-8 200hp 289cid 4V V-8 225hp 289cid 4V V-8 271hp 390cid 4V V-8 320hp Available Exterior Colors Acapulco Blue Arcadian Blue Brittany Blue Burnt Amber Candy Apple Red Clearwater Aqua Dark Moss Green Diamond Blue Diamond Green Dusk Rose Frost Turquoise Lime Gold Nightmist Blue Pebble Beige Raven Black Sauterne Gold Silver Frost Springtime Yellow Vintage Burgundy Wimbeldon White Anniversary Gold Aspen Gold Blue Bonnet Bright Red Columbine Blue Lavender Playboy Pink Timberline Green Vehicle Identification Numbers Engine Codes 200cid 1V 6cyl 120hp U 289cid 2V V-8 200hp C 289cid 4V V-8 225hp A 289cid 4V V-8 271hp K 390cid 4V V-8 320hp S 7 - Last digit of model year F - Assembly plant (F-Dearborn, R-San Jose T-Metuchen) 01 - Body code (01-Coupe, 03-Convertible, 02-Fastback) C - Engine Code 100001 - Consecutive unit number Example: 7F01C100001 Dimensions (1967 Fastback 302) Wheelbase: 108 in. Overall length: 183.6 in. Width: 70.9 in. Height: 51.8 in. Shoulder room: 53.4 in. Rear seat hip room: 40 in. Door opening width: 42.2 in. Floor to ground height: 9.7 in. Capacities (1967 Fastback 302) Luggage space, cu. ft.: 5.1 Fuel tank: 17.0 gal. Crankcase: 4.0 qt. Radiator coolant: 20.5 qt. Wheels and Tires (1967 Fastback 302) Wheel size: 14 x 6 JK Optional size available: 14 x 5.5 JK Bolt no./Circle diameter: 5/4.5 in. Recommended inflation: 28/28 psi Capacity rating, total lbs.: 4,950 1967 Mustang Weight ('67 Fastback 302) Curb weight: 3,400 lbs. Weight distribution, % f/r: 58,42 1967 Mustang Prices Retail 2dr Hardtop, 65A $2,461.46 Convertible, 76A 2,698.14 2+2 Fastback, 63A 2,592.17 289ci 200hp V-8 105.63 289ci 225hp V-8 158.48 289ci 271hp V-8 (with GT Equipment Group Only) 433.55 390ci 320hp V-8 263.71 Cruise-O-Matic automatic transmission, 6cyl 188.18 Cruise O-Matic automatic transmission, 200 or 225hp V-8 197.89 Cruise O-Matic automatic transmission, 271 or 320hp 220.17 4-speed manual transmission, 200 & 225hp V-8 184.02 4-speed manual transmission, 271 & 320hp V-8 233.18 Heavy-duty 3-speed manual, required with 320hp V-8 79.20 Power front disc brakes 64.77 Power steering 84.47 Power convertible top 52.95 GT Equipment Group (with V-8s only) 205.05 Limited slip differential 41.60 Styled steel wheels (2+2 only) 93.84 Styled steel wheels, all others 115.11 Competition handling package (with GT Equip. only) 388.53 Tinted windshield and window 30.25 Convenience Control Panel 39.50 Fingertip speed control (requires V-8 & Cruise-O-Matic) 71.30 Remote control outside mirror (std. 2+2) 9.58 Convertible safety glass rear window 32.44 SelectAire air conditioning 356.09 AM push-button radio 57.51 AM/FM push-button radio 133.65 Stereosonic tape system (AM radio required) 128.49 2+2 folding rear seat and access door (Sport Deck option) 64.77 Full width front seat (NA 2+2) 24.42 Tilt-away steering wheel 59.93 Rear deck luggage rack (2+2) 32.44 Comfortweave vinyl trim (NA convertible) 24.53 Center console (requires radio) 50.41 Deluxe steering wheel 31.52 Exterior decor group 38.86 Lower back panel grille 19.48 Interior Decor Group (convertible) 94.36 Interior Decor Group (all others) 108.06 Two-tone paint (lower back grille) 12.95 Accent paint stripe 13.90 Vinyl-covered roof (hardtop) 74.36 Wheel covers (std. 2+2) 21.34 Men det beror også på vilken karosstyp. Les her; http://www.fomoco.com/forummain/thread.asp?ID=2811 Den mest ovanliga option for 67 var Fingertip speed control. (Cruise controll). Bare 55 bilar fikk den! Hilsen John
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1965 Mustang Stulen!
Vi tittar efter i Norge med! John
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En legend har lagt på luren...
Dyno Don vil bli saknad: http://www.nhra.com/apcm/templates/news ... 5&zoneid=8
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Inntryckta innerskärmar?
Det blir många frågar til deg, men detta er en så cool bil! Varvræknare til 8000! Har sett andre km/h instrument kombinerad med varvræknare til 8000, men da har det varit 240km/h og inte 200! Har du tittat på baksidan av instrumenten? Der brukar finnas en datumkod. Vet du om instumenten er orginal til bilen? Kan du ta en bild på plåtbrikkan? John
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Inntryckta innerskärmar?
AM radio på en export bil til Europa? Konstigt! Grabber orange som orginalfarg. Cool. Er en upskattad farg i dag og ganska ovanlig. Intermittent wipers er også ovanligt. Trip odometer for export! Mycket ovanligt. Kan du ta en bild? Er inte sikker på om jag har sett det førut! Finns export decalen? Hva står der? Hilsen John
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Jaha.Ingen GM på våran gård...;-)
http://www.cnn.com/2006/US/01/18/old.ca ... topstories
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Inntryckta innerskärmar?
Tja hva vil jag se?: VIN#, DSO, Option priser på en orginal export T-5 bil m.m. Du hittade inte den orginale build sheeten i bilen? Finns Buch Taggen til bilen? Min Invoice kan ses her; http://twisterspecialregistry.com/ARICo ... 20304.html John
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Vilken antennsockel är rätt för 1968???
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NOS-67-6 ... dZViewItem
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Flygande kilometeren!?
Hei alla. Mitt innlegg var inte ment som forsøk på å delta i eller forsøka organisera nåt olagligt. Om jag inte minns fel, var "Flygande kilometeren" organiserad tilsammans med polisen og andra myndigheter. Om nån vet om det finns nån organiserad/laglig form for å delta i "Flygande kilometeren", så vil jag veta det! Jag er inte inntereserad av att delta i nåt olagligt, vara seg SO eller annat! Jag vil inte heller uppmana nåt ditåt. Hilsen John