grufman

www.stockholmwheels.com

http://jalopnik.com/photogallery/Mustan ... 1000312700 Fräckt!

04 har individuella tändspolar. jag skulle misstänka att det hänt något med en kamkedja. mkt konstigt fel

Det man kan uttyda av dom där bilderna är att bilen går i "smalare" tecken. 1) Backspeglarna är smalare 2) Baklysena har 4 ribbor istället för 3, och dom är dessutom smalare 3) Fronten ser smalare ut, makes sense. Det verkar som att dom har kilat till den lite. Kan bli mycket spännande.

knäcka lagret med en huggmejsel

då blir det ny kabelhärva och databox

Vad var det som var dåligt med förra cobrabakaxeln? Bilen designades från början för att enbart ha stel bakaxel, sen kom dom på att Cobran skulle ha delad. Så då slängde dom ihop nåt bolt-on kit som funkade lite halvtaskigt. Folk kör fortare på banorna i USA (typ american iron) med den stela baken! Den sitter fast med typ 4 bultar i bilen, flexar, känns orolig "på gränsen". Bilen trivs helt enkelt inte med den. Min 06:a med 150kg mer vikt, stel bakaxel och lika många hästar är sjukt mycket snabbare på banan än min Cobra med fullt chassikit. Den hade allt, bromsar, coil-overs osv osv osv. Detta är bara min åsikt då Ford verkar ha åkt på lite näsbrännor på det där med delade bakaxlar. Dom fixar lixom inte tekniken ordentligt. Navigatorn, Expedition och Explorer i senare årsmodeller har delad och det är och har varit en del strul med dom där bakvagnarna. Speciellt med läckande packboxar i och hjullager. En annan bil som hade delad bakaxel var Ford Thunderbird. Den designen blev aldeles för dyr och modellen lades ner i och med modellår 97. Fin bil för övrigt faktiskt, rättså mustanglik om man jämför med samma mustangårsmodell. Så vi får väl se om det blir någon ny bakvagn.

Vad var det som var dåligt med förra cobrabakaxeln?

Detta är egentligen en instruktion för 5.4L-motorerna, men 4.6L i Mustang är snarlik så det kan säkert hända på denna motor också. Riskera inte att bryta av tändstiftet i motorn, läs här först: ISSUE: Some 2004-2005 F-150 and 2005 F-Super Duty, Expedition, and Navigator vehicles with a 5.4L 3-valve engine may experience difficulty with spark plug removal which may cause damage to the spark plug and leave part of the spark plug in the cylinder head. ACTION: Refer to the following Service Procedure for techniques to remove the spark plugs and extract broken spark plugs. SERVICE PROCEDURE General Spark Plug Removal To remove spark plugs without damage, it is necessary to adhere exactly to this procedure before removal is attempted. Make sure the engine is warm (hand touch after cooling down). CAUTION: DO NOT REMOVE PLUGS WHEN THE ENGINE IS EXTREMELY HOT OR COLD SOAKED. THIS INCREASES THE CHANCE THE THREADS COULD BE DAMAGED. CAUTION: BE SURE TO WEAR SAFETY GLASSES FOR STEP 2. Remove the coil-on-plug assemblies and thoroughly blow out the spark plug wells and surrounding valve cover area with compressed air. Back out the spark plugs, no more than 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn. Apply penetrating oil (AeroKroil or equivalent) and fill the spark plug well just above where the jamb nut hex sits. A minimum period of 5 to 10 minutes of soak time is required. The penetrating oil will wick down to the ground electrode shield in this time. DO NOT WORK the spark plug back and forth at this point. CAUTION: EXCESSIVE PENETRANT, OR REPEATING THE PROCESS SEVERAL TIMES WITH TOO MUCH FLUID, COULD INTRODUCE ENOUGH LIQUID VOLUME TO HYDRO-LOCK THE ENGINE. CAUTION: DO NOT USE AIR OR POWER TOOLS FOR PLUG REMOVAL. THE PLUG MUST ONLY BE REMOVED WITH HAND TOOLS. Slowly turn the spark plug out. Some screeching and high effort may be noticed but, not in every case. The expected removal torque is about 33 lb-ft (45 N-m) but should decrease on the way out. If it is higher, try turning the spark plug back in a half turn, then back out again. If the turning torque still seems high, repeat the back and forth rotation along with some penetrating oil to reduce turning effort. Separated/Broken Spark Plug Removal If the plug does come apart even after following the General Spark Plug Removal Procedure, it will break in one of two modes: Mode 1: The ground electrode shield is left behind as an empty shell (Figure 1). Figure 1 - Article 06-15-2 Mode 2: The porcelain center and ground electrode shield is left behind and only the upper jamb nut comes out. In this case more soaking is required and long-reach nose pliers should be used to grasp and remove the porcelain center from the ground electrode shield (Figure 2). Figure 2 - Article 06-15-2 Once there is only an empty ground electrode shield left in the cylinder head, perform the following steps to remove the shield using Rotunda Special Service Tool 303-1203 (Figure 3). Figure 3 - Article 06-15-2 NOTE: THIS TOOL IS ONLY DESIGNED TO WORK WITH AN EMPTY GROUND ELECTRODE SHIELD. IF THE SPARK PLUG CAME APART IN MODE 2, THE PORCELAIN CENTER MUST BE REMOVED PRIOR TO FOLLOWING THESE STEPS. The combustion chamber must be protected from contamination during the extraction process by using a modified vacuum cap (382444-S) as a stopper-type plug. This is because the remaining ground electrode shield will be thread-tapped, so the cap is needed to prevent thread chips from falling into the cylinder bore. Cut a vacuum cap to a 3/8" (10 mm) length for each ground electrode shield that needs to be removed. Install the modified cap with a long drill bit or suitable wire (Figure 4), sized for the internal diameter of the cap. The rubber cap should bottom-out on the electrode strap of the ground electrode shield once installed. Figure 4 - Article 06-15-2 Thread-tap the ground electrode shield using a 9.0 x 1.0 mm "plug" tap (tap profile is about 3-4 reduced diameter threads on the tip end). Coat the end of the tap with general purpose grease as shown in Figure 5. Figure 5 - Article 06-15-2 Turn the tap about 3 to 4 turns into the ground electrode shield once the tap begins to cut. As the shield is tapped, for every 1/2 turn, the tap should be backed up 1/8 turn to "break chips" and prevent any cut material from coiling-up and laying in the spark plug well. All of the thread chips will embed in the grease pack or drop inside the vacuum cap when following this procedure. A suitably sized tap wrench of about 7-9 inches in handle length will aid in reaching down the well. If not available, use an 8 point socket with a ratchet and drive extension. Keep the shank aligned with the axis of the spark plug bore cavity to prevent possible thread bore damage. Use care not to damage any spark plug threads on the way in. CAUTION: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REMOVE THE GROUND ELECTRODE SHIELD WITH THE TAP AND WRENCH. THE TAP MAY BREAK IF THIS IS ATTEMPTED. Carefully back out the tap while maintaining the residual grease coat on the tap which contains some chips. Take care not to touch the sides of the spark plug well bore during removal. Once the ground electrode shield is tapped, thread Rotunda Special Service Tool 303-1203 into the ground electrode shield to extract it from the spark plug well and encapsulate any remaining chips from falling into the combustion chamber. NOTE: SEE FIGURE 6 FOR DETAILS OF THE TOOL AS INSTALLED IN THE HEAD. Figure 6 - Article 06-15-2 Install the stepped end of the tool pilot bushing into the spark plug well ensuring it bottoms out. Screw the center shank into the ground electrode shield. Do not over tighten the shank, to prevent thread stripping. Install the nylon washer and jack nut until finger tight. Turn the jack nut with a socket and 3/8" drive ratchet until the ground electrode is freed from the cavity and withdraw the tool assembly. Several turns of the nut are required. Upon removal, any remaining chips not caught earlier by the tap grease will be captured by the rubber plug sitting at the bottom of the ground electrode shield. NOTE: ONCE THE SPARK PLUGS HAVE ALL BEEN REMOVED, NEW PLUGS SHOULD BE INSTALLED USING A FILM COATING OF MOTORCRAFT HIGH TEMPERATURE NICKEL ANTI-SEIZE LUBRICANT (XL-2) ON THE GROUND ELECTRODE SHIELD OF THE NEW SPARK PLUG (FIGURE 7). DO NOT COAT THE ELECTRODE STRAP OR THE PLUG WILL MISFIRE. THE NEW PLUGS SHOULD BE INSTALLED WITH NO LUBRICANT ON THE THREADS AND TORQUED TO SPECIFICATION, 25 LB-FT (34 N-m). Figure 7 - Article 06-15-2

Nästa Ford Mustang lär komma i och med årsmodell 2010. Vad önskar ni er för nymodigheter? Jag har iallafall några önskemål: 1) bättre interiörkvalitet - sorry, den lämnar tyvärr ngt övrigt att önska. bättre känsla i dörrar, hantag, vred och material 2) Ny fräck design, den får gärna behålla retrostuket, men vara "tuffare" 3) Det skulle vara sjukt coolt med en seriellhybrid med elmotor som va så kraftfull att man kunde rita svarta streck precis överallt... fast det lär inte komma haha. nå mer tips?

ISSUE: Some 2005-2008 Mustang , Explorer 4dr, Mountaineer, Expedition, Navigator, 2005 Explorer Sport Trac and 2007-2008 Explorer Sport Trac vehicles may experience a no start and have a discharged battery. They are usually stored for prolonged periods of time or are driven infrequently for short distances. Batteries will discharge while the vehicle is in storage due to normal current draw loads. Over a period of time, 30 days or more, vehicles in storage will have shallow to deeply discharged batteries as a result of lack of use or normal current draw. ACTION: Follow the Service Tips steps to correct the condition. SERVICE TIPS Charging system diagnostics and battery draw test are located in Workshop Manual, Section 414-00. Discharged batteries need to be properly recharged following the procedures in TSB 07-5-8. All modern automobiles have several micro processors in their electrical system that will draw small amounts of electrical current when the vehicle key is off. Normal current draw is between 20-30 milliamps (workshop manual specification is up to 50 milliamps 0.050 amps). The more discharged a battery becomes, the more susceptible it is to permanent damage. This is more likely in low temperatures (below 32 °F (0 °C). Batteries will discharge while the vehicle is in storage due to normal current draw loads. Over a period of time (30 days or more), vehicles in storage will have shallow to deeply discharged batteries as a result of lack of use or normal current draw. NOTE: ELECTRICAL OR ELECTRONIC ACCESSORIES OR COMPONENTS ADDED TO THE VEHICLE BY THE DEALER OR BY THE OWNER WILL INCREASE THE CURRENT DRAW LOADS AND ADVERSELY AFFECT BATTERY PERFORMANCE AND DURABILITY. The vehicle's charging system is designed to supply the vehicle's electrical power needs and maintain the battery to near full charge during normal vehicle use. The charging system is not capable of bringing a deeply discharged battery back to near full charge in a short amount of time such as allowing the vehicle to idle for 15 minutes to "recharge the battery" or from short drive cycles. Short drive cycles will only provide a small surface charge to the battery. To fully recharge a battery that is fully discharged requires operating the vehicle for approximately two (2) hours with engine speed above 1500 RPM. Vehicles that are stored for extended periods or are driven infrequently for short distances may need to use an auxiliary battery maintainer/charger that is expressly designed to maintain the battery state of charge during storage. These maintainers/chargers are available in the automotive aftermarket and should be used according to their manufacturer's direction.

Det sitter en gummiplupp i insuget där PCV-ventilen sitter. Den kan torka sönder och suga in tjyvluft. Ta ut pcv, ta ut gummidutt och även svinto-filtret som sitter under. Byt ut.

Låter bilden tala för sig själv... Just detta är dock en framaxel på en ford explorer.. men men...

hur gick det med tillsatsen?

Vi har ford originalkapell, flerlagers som andas med spolieruttag. Ligger på 4331kr inkl moms. Vi har sålt ett flertal av dessa modeller till Exclusive cars, fast motsvarande modell för 05->. Mkt bra prylar. Pm'a om du vill ha

kolla om tomgångsmotorn har fastnat i stängt läge.. händer ibland

bytt hallgivaren?

jag är nog inne på peters linje. Den ser rätt trist ut.. typ som att klämma ut det sista ur kaviartuben, då blir det ingen fin sträng utan bara massa kluttar. Nä... bättre kan dom, fast rosenslipade alupaneler är fett. Annars tycker jag nya Ford Verve visar att ford vågar. http://www.automotorsport.se/bigpix/200 ... tor_06.jpg

Vad tror ni om nya bullitten? Grön metallic Inga dimljus i fronten Ingen spoiler Lite nya emblem Lite fixad inredning (bla nya snygga alu-paneler= http://jalopnik.com/cars/2008-ford-must ... 319778.php Kan det vara något månne? någon som blir sugen?

http://www.grufmanbil.se/el/fuse05.pdf

Vi säljer exakt den modellen av framblinkers. 995kr inkl moms. Lampor ingår.

är det garanti så man kan få ut tanken på exclusives nybils försäkring? Exclusive brukar använda Fragus som försäkringsbolag. Här är villkoren: http://www.dealerwarranty.se/aboutG.asp?subDo=premium

Kommer ny tank och rör att lösa problemet då, ämnet har ju diskuteras tidigare och det verkar ju som att en ny tank inte löser problemet heller!? Vilken kostnad medför det? Ja, det löser problemet till 95%. Vi har monterat ett flertal nya tankar på bilar som varit "omöjliga". Alla kunder har varit helt nöjda. Vi gjorde ett totalbyte på en mustang 05 där vi dessutom bytte tankgivarna, också ett mycket vanligt mustang 05-fel. Det låg på 16779kr inkl moms monterat och klart.

Vad var bättre?

var det ingen som märkte att den trillade ner i brevlådan häromveckan?