Royen June 9, 2010 Report June 9, 2010 Tänkte höra med er om ni har löst den hoppande huven på något sätt? Jag vet att den inte lossnar men det ser förbannat tråkigt ut med allt det där studsandet.Antar att det beror på luft som kommer in under huven när man ökar farten lite. Funderade på att sätta super magneter längs med huven för att se om dom kan hålla den på plats. Kanske blir för jobbigt att öppna huven sen dock.Kanske få dit några lister som hindrar luften från att ta sig in?Tips och tricks would I like yes.Läste runt lite nu och jag skippar magneterna, det är luften som måste ledas bort. Verkar vara ett djävulskt projekt så det får nog vara :/ Citera
denversson June 9, 2010 Report June 9, 2010 Huvbyte sägs lösa det , och några konkreta förslag på vilka huvar som fungerar vore uppskattat av dem som vet. Citera
BJÖRN_84 June 9, 2010 Report June 9, 2010 Kanske huvpinnar(Huvlås) kan lösa ditt problem.Ser både snyggt ut o ser nog till att huven inte fladdrar på sidorna. Citera
uffeg June 9, 2010 Report June 9, 2010 Det är ju inte längst fram den skramlar runt. Utan på sidorna på mitten.Så huvlås.. nja... hjälper kanske lite.Kanske huvlås på sidorna skulle vara bäst, men hur ser det ut? Citera
Royen June 9, 2010 Author Report June 9, 2010 Huvpinnar är ingen lösning, det är ju liksom försent när dom kommer till användning. Vad jag fått fram så hjälper inte huv byte särskilt mycket, du kommer behöva en jävligt tung huv för att det ska fungera. Kopierar ett inlägg från ett amerikanskt forum. Den här killen verkar veta vad han pratar om.Hood pins are not a total fix. It just raises the speed at which the hood starts moving. Watch this video all the way through. It has hood pins and at the end of the run (the slow mo part) the hood has lifted about an inch or more there is so much air under there. That’s scary! And imagine how that is hurting the top speed.Check the hood out in this link:RoadandTrack.com -- Feature - Thunder Road: The Standing Mile (9/2005)I have talked to about a million people about airflow management on the S197 because I plan on going 200mph this spring. I have talked to everyone from FR500 owners to the guy who runs the Miller Mustang Cup series and I climbed all over and under the S197 that went 250mph at Boniville that was on the cover of Hot Rod last month. Bottom line is that there is way too much air getting into the engine bay and not getting out. There are about a million solutions for this. And some stuff you think would work doesn’t. Here are the things that I have done/am doing right now to keep as much air as possible out of the engine compartment (which will increase top speed dramatically too).Front end splitter. Doesn’t need to be a big race style one, even the one from Legend X or a GT500 knock off will do. The reason you want this is to get some air moving under the car. In a perfect world you would have no air under the car but we have to drive these on the street so you deal with the perameters you are working with.Put a belly pan that goes from the splitter all the way back to the rear edge of the K member. This will crate a vacuume at the rear of the engine compartment as the air under the car draws the engine compartment air out.This is the hard one. The air going in the grille needs a lot of help. First off the plastic “splitter/radiator cover is useless. A ton of air gets between it and the underside of the hood. I am currently fitting up a thin aluminum one that will seal the entire front end of the hood up so no air gets in. It will be finished off with a rubber gasket. Next is too make blocking plates so the air going through the grille either goes through the radiator or doesn’t get past the grille. You want to do the same thing for the opening under the bumper too. Basically you want to make two (I’m using aluminum) “boxes” that go from the openings to what they are cooling and sealed against it with some rubber gasket. The boxes want to “open up” in angle from the entrance to the exit at a 8 deg angle. This will create pressure in front of the Rad, A/C compressor, heat exchanger, etc. This is a lot of work. I am setting mine up so all of the ducting is attached to the bumper cover and comes off with it when removed. This will keep a massive amount of air from getting under the hood and will increase cooling.Another solution is a heat extractor type hood, but I have only found one nice one and it weighs as much as the OEM hood and would be well over a grand by the time it’s painted. It also won’t evacuate as much air as you need to. On top of that I like the sleeper look. It certainly won’t hurt, but the dollar/benefit ratio sucks.Lastly, and none of you will probably do this is to build a diffuser for the rear of the car. A good diffuser design will help to manage the air under the car and pull even more air out of the engine compartment. It also has the benefit of joining the air that goes over the top of the car and the bottom at the rear of the car which will improve the aerodynamics for the entire car and increase top speed. I’m in the process of making one out of carbon fiber right now.With the radiator cover made out of aluminum and tightly sealed to the hood in addition to a front splitter will reduce a ton of the hood movement problem. Blocking airflow at the grille and channeling it either up or under the car or through the cooling components will just about get rid of all of it.Like I said above I’m going to look at mass production o the aluminum radiator cover when I have my prototype done. If I can get them made cheap enough I will probably produce them. I could even do a limited pr-order for a batch of carbon ones. The block off plates and channels to go between the bumper and the cooling devices will be hard to produce though. There will be a ton of differing shapes needed depending on what Rad you are running, if you are FI and have a heat exchanger etc.I won’t have all of this done till the end of Feb but when I am I will post pics and my new top speed. Citera
BJÖRN_84 July 4, 2010 Report July 4, 2010 Kan bara säga efter jag satt dit mina huv lås pinnar och satt dit sprintarna så har jag inget huv hoppande har idag en Supersnake huv.Där har du lösningen på problemet. Citera
Royen July 5, 2010 Author Report July 5, 2010 Jag vill dock varken ha huvlås eller någon annan huv. Så problemet kvarstår Citera
BJÖRN_84 July 5, 2010 Report July 5, 2010 Jag vill dock varken ha huvlås eller någon annan huv. Så problemet kvarstår PL400 Citera
aahrling August 3, 2010 Report August 3, 2010 Hade inga problem med min orginalhuv, gummitkuddarna var spända rätt så hårt. Den fladdrade aldrig. Satte på en annan huv, den fladdrade rejält om man körde runt 150 och uppåt. Satte på fjäderdämpande huvpinns, vilket löste problemet. nu vibrerar den aldrig.Testa skruva upp gummikuddarna. Citera
Ashley Helena Terese August 3, 2010 Report August 3, 2010 Håller med föregående. Min huv skumpar inte den heller, det konstiga är att det verkar som den är av plast ? Citera
BJÖRN_84 August 3, 2010 Report August 3, 2010 (redigerad) Håller med föregående. Min huv skumpar inte den heller, det konstiga är att det verkar som den är av plast ? Är gjord i aliminium Ändrade %s av %s (%s) Citera
Corvette August 4, 2010 Report August 4, 2010 det huvpinnar som gäller om man inte ska modda den så man får vakum... är spännande när man kör på autobahn och ser huven börja fladdra vid 140+, vid 250 så ja då vet man inte va man ska ha ögonen på huven eller vägen men huven sitter fast... Citera
streetsaleen August 9, 2010 Report August 9, 2010 motorhuven måste väl göra så att Aerodynamiken blir nått djävulskt sämre på S197 mustangerna? Citera
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.