JohnB
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Visst fins det Mustaanger med manual choke. 69/70 Boss 302, 70 428 Cobra Jet/Super Cobra Jet har manual choke. Helt sikkert flera. Vet ej om 68 390 hade manual choke. Tittar lite på netet. John
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Plast. PUTSA INTE. John
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Hittar du en liten bricka på pasasjer sidan framme på lådan. Om du hittar den med bokstaverna RUG-** eller HEH-**, så kan du identifiera den her; http://www.davidkeetoploaders.com/idchart1.htm John
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Fixa en lokal avdeling av OVERHAULING eller ringa ALLA tenkbara kompiser som kan skruva bil John
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John
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Tja, vet ej om den er så bra. Den inneholder lite fel info. Vil rekomendera denne http://www.mustangdecoder.com/decoder.html Even denne er inte helt felfri men..... John
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http://freenet-homepage.de/pony/ Trykk Breaking News Scroll helt ned. Se på Page 6 Der hittar du texten "Mustang IRS the other way". Trykk på texten. John
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Nema problema John
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1965 Se http://freenet-homepage.de/pony/ Gå helt ned og titta under sida 6 eller se nåt tidligere nummer av Power Finns også og køpa nytilverkad. John
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D9 = 1979 9F7 = 7 Juni 1979 John
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Visst. Finns til og med 69 428 SCJ med trumbroms utan servo John
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Nja, har trolig det nummeret av S & S. Men det ligger nedpakkad i låder tilsammans med några tusen andra bilmagaziner;-) Kjenner til den trimmade Boss motoren. Om jag minns rett, blev den innstalerad i en svart 67 fastback her i Norge. Bilen gikk på dragracen her i Norge. Trolig i Sverige også. Vet att det va nån story om bilen/ motoren i ett av dom Norska bilmagazinene. Enten Amcar eller Right On. Om det finns nåt interessa av motoren, så kan jag hjelpe til med å lokalisere den om det finns nåt interesse? John
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Der den ble montert i en 67 Fastback....... Undrar på VIN# på Bossen?? John
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http://fomoco.phpbbnow.com/viewtopic.php?t=6600 John
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Det var nytt for meg;-) Finns båda 1.12 og 1.14 for 289/302. Har en liten bok. Ford Carburetor Guide By Pony Carburators, Inc. Lite gammal, från 1993. Står "lite" godis info der. Dette er en 1967 forgasser. I boken står det også; Fuel inlet threads 1/8"-pipe threads. Venturi: 1.02, 1.14, 1:23. Både tidligere og senere forgassare skilljer på flere punkter. John
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http://www.graphic-express.com/1968_mus ... stripe.asp John
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C7DF-V = 1.14 Venturi Size. Her betyder det att det er en 300 CFM. (Typ 2100) Tror også att det er en Autolite då det blev Motorcraft i 1972. Posta en bild så kan jag kansje beretta mer Efter å ha tittat lite mere. KAN va forgasare til 67/68 Mustang/Fairline/Torino/Cougar med 289-2V med California Emissions. John
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Lite av samma sak her; http://www.boss302.com/smf/index.php?topic=36157.0 John
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Prøv http://www.autozone.com/addVehicleId,14 ... lected.htm John
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Ser du att du svarar på ett innlegg som er mere en 2 år gammalt John
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Hadde nåt ditåt i Januari. TOOLS, AND THEIR REAL USES!!!!!!! DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands, so it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, splattering it against that freshly stained, heirloom piece you were drying. WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned guitar calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, "Yeou ****...." ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age. SKILL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short. PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood blisters. The tool used most often by all women. BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touchup jobs into major refinishing jobs. HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes. VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. WELDING GLOVES: Heavy-duty leather gloves used to prolong the conduction of intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub that you want the bearing race out of. WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British cars and motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or ½ socket you've been searching for the last 45 minutes. TABLE SAW: A large, stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity. HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper. EIGHT-FOOT LONG YELLOW PINE 2X4: Used for levering an automobile upward off of a trapped hydraulic jack handle. TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters and wire wheel wires. E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool ten times harder than any known drill bit that snaps neatly off in bolt holes, thereby ending any possible future use. RADIAL ARM SAW: A large, stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to scare neophytes into choosing another line of work. TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect. CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 24-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A very large pry bar that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end opposite the handle. AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw. TROUBLE LIGHT: The home mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin," which is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, its main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate that 105mm howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat misleading. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids and for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads. Women excel at using this tool. STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws. AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal- burning power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty bolts which were last over tightened 30 years ago by someone at Ford, and instantly rounds off their heads. Also used to quickly snap off lug nuts . PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part. HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short. HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit. Women primarily use it to make gaping holes in walls when hanging pictures. MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use. DAMMIT TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling "DAMMIT" at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need. John
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http://www.maxanet.com/cgi-bin/mndetails.cgi?rosen John
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