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har du kollat säkring nr 4?

var i landet är du?

Det finns en hel del faktiskt! Mitt råd ta från en bilfirma där du kan få garanti. Det är nästan allid nått strul med dessa med enkla felkoder eller annat som har med elektronik att göra....Eller maskinellt för den delen Inte nödvändigtvis med att det kan vara dålig kvalitet utan mer att bilar blir stående långa tider eller klåfingriga ägare.....Mustangägare verkar ha en större andel som "tror" de kan skruva än andra entusuaster. Bilar mår alltid bäst att konstant användas

Jag har en Mustang GT Convertible från 1994. Airbag lampan har börjat lysa konstant efter att den blinkat då jag slår på tändningen. Felkoden är 12 anar jag då det blinkar en gång, blir ett mellanrum och sen två korta blinkningar. Efter någon minut lyser sedan lampan konstant. Har sökt svar och läst att det kan vara för låg spänning/tillförsel från batteriet. Verkar som om den del där ev. säkringar sitter kan vara under handskfacket. Är det någon som vet hur man löser detta eller kan tipsa om kunnig bilrep. som kan mäta spänningen etc och hjälpa mig få ordning på detta? Har idag hämtat bilen från verkstad där det lagat trasig spridare och bytt täbdkablarna så nu går bilen på alla cylindrar. Batteriet är helt nytt. Jag bad dem kolla airbag lampan men de sa de inte kommer åt och hänvisade till Ford. Tacksam för hjälp. Med en multimeter kan man kolla detta men jag saknar kunskap. /Christina

Hej, jag har precis fått hjälp på verkstad att få bort starkt missljud som uppstår och pågår när jag uppnått exakt 120 km/tim. Ljudet försvann inte förrän jag sänkte hastigheten. Missljudet är en hastighetsvarningssignal som många importerade bilar har, ex från Saudi Arabien. Jag fick hjälp med att koppla bort ekkabeln och nu är ljudet helt borta vid 120 km och över. 😃

Tack , jag ska ge mig själv en 50 års present 😊. Jag kollar och har hittat flera fina på blocket . Så återkommer med frågor.  😊

Ja det låter som om något inte kuggar i ordentligt....? Och det påverkas bara av fart, inte gaspådrag/belastning.  Blir ut och lägga några sträck då....

Tack.....pust😲🤔👍

Symptom Chart — Driveline Symptom Chart — Driveline Condition Possible Sources Action Traction-Lok does not work in snow, mud or on ice Differential CARRY OUT the Traction-Lok Differential Operation Check in this section. REPAIR as necessary. REFER to Section  205-02B. Lubricant leaking from the pinion seal, axle shaft oil seals or support arm to the housing Vent Damage in the seal contact area or dust slinger on the pinion flange dust shield CLEAN the axle housing vent. INSTALL a new pinion flange and the pinion seal if damage is found. Differential side gears/pinion gears are scored Insufficient lubrication INSTALL new gears. REFER to Section  205-02A or Section  205-02B. FILL the axle to specification.   Incorrect or contaminated lubricant type INSTALL new gears. REFER to Section  205-02A or Section  205-02B. CLEAN and REFILL the axle to specification. Axle overheating Lubricant level too low CHECK the lubricant level. FILL the axle to specification.   Incorrect or contaminated lubrication type INSPECT the axle for damage. REPAIR as necessary. CLEAN and REFILL the axle to specification.   Bearing preload adjusted too tight CHECK the ring and pinion for damage. INSPECT the ring and pinion wear pattern. ADJUST the preload as necessary.   Excessive gear wear INSPECT all the axle gears for wear or damage. INSTALL new components as necessary.   Incorrect ring gear backlash INSPECT the ring gear for scoring. INSPECT the ring and pinion wear pattern. ADJUST the ring gear backlash as necessary. Broken gear teeth on the ring gear or pinion Overloading the vehicle INSTALL a new ring and pinion. REFER to Section  205-02A or Section  205-02B. Gray or milky axle lubricant in low mileage vehicles Marking compound in axle fluid Inspect axle housing and vent for damage or leaks. Refer to Axle Fluid Analysis in this section. Symptom Chart — NVH Symptom Chart — NVH Condition Possible Sources Action NOTE: NVH symptoms should be identified using the diagnostic tools that are available. For a list of these tools, an explanation of their uses and a glossary of common terms, refer to Section  100-04. Since it is possible any one of multiple systems may be the cause of a symptom, it may be necessary to use a process of elimination type of diagnostic approach to pinpoint the responsible system. If this is not the causal system for the symptom, refer back to Section  100-04 for the next likely system and continue diagnosis. Axle howling or whine Axle lubricant low CHECK the lubricant level. FILL the axle to specification. REFER to Section  205-02A or Section  205-02B.   Tuned dampers missing or incorrectly installed REFER to the TSB and follow the procedure outlined.   Axle housing damage INSPECT the axle housing for damage. REPAIR or INSTALL a new axle as necessary. REFER to Section  205-02A or Section  205-02B.   Damaged or worn wheel hub bearings CHECK for abnormal rear wheel bearing play or roughness. INSTALL a new wheel bearing as necessary. REFER to Section  205-02A or Section  205-02B.   Damaged or worn differential ring and pinion INSPECT and INSTALL a new differential ring and pinion as necessary. REFER to Section  205-02A or Section  205-02B.   Damaged or worn differential side or pinion bearings INSPECT and INSTALL new differential side or pinion bearings as necessary. REFER to Section  205-02A or Section  205-02B. Driveline clunk — loud clunk when shifting from REVERSE to DRIVE Incorrect axle lubricant level CHECK the lubricant level. FILL the axle to specification. REFER to Section  205-02A or Section  205-02B.   Excessive backlash in the axle CHECK the ring gear backlash. REPAIR as necessary. REFER to Section  205-02A or Section  205-02B.   Damaged or worn pinion bearings REPAIR or INSTALL new pinion bearings as necessary. REFER to Section  205-02A or Section  205-02B.   Damaged or worn U-joints INSPECT the U-joints for wear or damage. INSTALL new U-joints or driveshaft as necessary. REFER to Section  205-01. Driveline clunk — occurs as the vehicle starts to move forward following a stop Worn driveshaft CV joint or U-joints INSPECT the CV joint and U-joints for wear. INSTALL a new driveshaft or U-joints as necessary. REFER to Section  205-01.   Loose axle mount CHECK the axle for loose bolts. TIGHTEN to specification. REFER to Section  205-02A or Section  205-02B. High pitched chattering — noise from the axle when the vehicle is turning Incorrect or contaminated lubricant CHECK the vehicle by driving in tight circles (5 clockwise, 5 counterclockwise). FLUSH and REFILL with the specified rear axle lubricant and friction modifier as necessary.   Damaged or worn differential (differential side gears and pinion gears) REPAIR or INSTALL new differential side gears or pinion gears as necessary. REFER to Section  205-02A or Section  205-02B. Rumble or boom — noise occurs at coast/deceleration, usually driveshaft speed-related and noticeable over a wide range of speeds Excessive driveshaft runout and/or driveshaft is out-of-balance CHECK the driveshaft runout and balance. REFER to Driveshaft Runout and Balancing in this section.   Binding or seized U-joints ROTATE the driveshaft and CHECK for binding or seized U-joints. INSTALL new U-joints or driveshaft as necessary. REFER to Section  205-01. Grunting — normally associated with a shudder experienced during acceleration from a complete stop Binding driveshaft CV joint INSPECT the driveshaft CV joint for binding. INSTALL a new driveshaft as necessary. REFER to Section  205-01.   Loose axle mount bolts or suspension fasteners INSPECT the rear suspension and axle. TIGHTEN the fasteners to specification. REFER to Section  205-02A or Section  205-02B. Howl — can occur at various speeds and driving conditions. Affected by acceleration and deceleration Incorrect ring and pinion contact, incorrect bearing preload or gear damage INSPECT and REPAIR as necessary. REFER to Section  205-02A or Section  205-02B. Chuckle — heard at coast/deceleration. Also described as a knock Incorrect ring and pinion contact or damaged teeth on the coast side of the ring and pinion INSPECT and REPAIR as necessary. REFER to Section  205-02A or Section  205-02B. Knock — noise occurs at various speeds. Not affected by acceleration or deceleration Gear tooth damage to the drive side of the ring and pinion INSTALL a new ring and pinion. REFER to Section  205-02A or Section  205-02B. Scraping noise — a continuous low pitched noise starting at low speeds Worn or damaged pinion bearings INSPECT and REPAIR or INSTALL new pinion bearings. REFER to Section  205-02A or Section  205-02B. Driveline shudder — occurs during acceleration from a slow speed or stop Incorrect transmission crossmember orientation CHECK for correct orientation. REINSTALL if necessary. REFER to Section  502-00.   Center bearing spacer missing or incorrectly installed CHECK for correct installation of center bearing spacer. REFER to Section  205-01.   Drive axle assembly mispositioned CHECK the axle mounts and the rear suspension for damage or wear. REPAIR as necessary. REFER to Section  205-02A or Section  205-02B.   Loose axle bolts CHECK the axle for loose bolts. TIGHTEN the bolts to specification. REFER to Section  205-02A or Section  205-02B.   Driveline angles out of specification CHECK for correct driveline angles. REFER to Driveline Angle Measurement in this section. For vehicles equipped with a 2 piece driveshaft, ADJUST the driveline angle as neccesary. REFER to Driveline Angle Adjustment In this section.   U-joints binding or seized ROTATE the driveshaft and CHECK for binding or seized U-joints. INSTALL new U-joints or driveshaft as necessary. REFER to Section  205-01.   Binding or damaged driveshaft CV joint INSPECT the driveshaft CV joint for binding or damage. INSTALL a new driveshaft as necessary. REPAIR as necessary. REFER to Section  205-01. Driveline vibration — occurs at cruising speeds Missing weights or damage to driveshaft INSPECT the driveshaft. INSTALL a new driveshaft as necessary. REFER to Section  205-01.   Worn U-joints CHECK for wear or incorrect seating. INSTALL new U-joints or driveshaft as necessary. REFER to Section  205-01.   Misalignment of yellow dot on driveshaft-to-yellow dot on pinion flange plus or minus 1 bolt hole REINSTALL driveshaft with yellow dots aligned plus or minus 1 bolt hole. REFER to Section  205-01.   Worn or damaged driveshaft center bearing support CHECK the insulator for damage or wear. ROTATE the driveshaft and CHECK for rough operation. INSTALL a new driveshaft as necessary. REFER to Section  205-01.   Loose axle pinion flange bolts INSPECT the axle pinion flange. TIGHTEN the pinion flange bolts to specification. REFER to Section  205-01.   Excessive axle pinion flange runout CHECK the pinion flange runout. REPAIR as necessary. REFER to Pinion Flange Runout Check in this section.   Excessive transmission flange runout CHECK the transmission flange runout. REPAIR as necessary. REFER to Specification in this section.   Binding or damaged driveshaft CV joint INSPECT the driveshaft CV joint for binding or damage. INSTALL a new driveshaft as necessary. REFER to Section  205-01.   Excessive driveshaft runout and/or driveshaft out-of-balance CHECK the driveshaft runout and balance. REFER to Driveshaft Runout and Balancing in this section.   Driveline angles out of specification CHECK for correct driveline angles. REPAIR as necessary. REFER to Driveline Angle Measurement in this section.   Transmission mount not centered NEUTRALIZE the transmission mount. REFER to the Transmission Crossmember procedure in Section  502-00. Axle Fluid Analysis The appearance of milky or gray axle fluid in early mileage axles is a result of white marking compound used at the assembly plant to verify gear mesh contact pattern. The marking compound within the fluid will darken some over time. The milky fluid appearance will diminish and cause no harm and does not require a fluid change. Analysis of Leakage Clean up the leaking area enough to identify the exact source. A plugged axle housing vent can cause excessive pinion seal lip wear due to internal pressure buildup. Verify the lubricant level is at specification. Axle Vent A plugged vent will cause excessive seal lip wear due to internal pressure buildup. If a leak occurs, check the vent. If the vent cannot be cleared, install a new vent. Drive Pinion Seal Leaks at the drive pinion seal originate from the following causes: Damaged seal Worn seal journal surface Any damage to the seal bore (dings, dents, gouges or other imperfections) distorts the seal casing and allows leakage past the outer edge of the drive pinion seal. The drive pinion seal can be torn, cut or gouged if it is not installed correctly. The spring that holds the drive pinion seal against the pinion flange may be knocked out and allow fluid to pass the lip. Metal chips trapped at the sealing lip can cause oil leaks. These can cause a wear groove on the drive pinion flange and result in pinion seal wear. When a seal leak occurs, install a new drive pinion seal and check the vent to make sure it is clean and free of foreign material. A new drive pinion flange must be installed if any of these conditions exist. Drive Pinion Nut NOTICE: Install the drive pinion nut to the correct torque specifications or damage to the differential components may occur. On some high-mileage vehicles, oil may leak through the threads of the drive pinion nut. This condition can be corrected by installing a new nut and applying threadlock on the threads and nut face. Differential Seals NOTICE: When installing shafts, do not allow splines to contact seals during installation or damage to the seals may occur. Axle shaft housing seals are susceptible to the same types of damage as drive pinion seals if incorrectly installed. The seal bore must be clean and the lip handled carefully to avoid cutting or tearing it. The seal journal surface must be free of nicks, gouges and rough surface texture. For information on differential seals, refer to Section  205-02A or Section  205-02B. Component Tests Traction-Lok Differential Operation Check A Traction-Lok differential can be checked for correct operation without removing it from the rear axle housing. Raise and remove only one rear wheel. Install the Differential Gauge on the wheel bolts. Use a torque wrench with the capacity of at least 271 Nm (200 lb-ft) to rotate the axle shaft. Make sure that the transmission is in NEUTRAL, and that one rear wheel is on the floor while the other rear wheel is raised off the floor. The breakaway torque required to start rotation must be at least 27 Nm (20 lb-ft). The initial breakaway torque may be higher than the continuous turning torque. The axle shaft must turn with even pressure throughout the check without slipping or binding. If the torque reading is less than specified, check the differential case for incorrect assembly. Traction-Lok Differential Check Road Test Place one wheel on a dry surface and the other wheel on ice, mud or snow. Gradually open the throttle to obtain maximum traction prior to break away. The ability to move the vehicle demonstrates correct performance of a Traction-Lok rear axle assembly. When starting with one wheel on an excessively slippery surface, a slight application of the parking brake may be necessary to help energize the Traction-Lok feature of the differential. Release the brake when traction is established. Use light throttle on starting to provide maximum traction. If, with unequal traction, both wheels slip, the limited slip rear axle has done all it can possibly do. In extreme cases of differences in traction, the wheel with the least traction may spin after the Traction-Lok has transferred as much torque as possible to the non-slipping wheel. Tooth Contact Pattern Check — Gearset To check the gear tooth contact, paint the gear teeth with the special marking compound. A mixture that is too wet will run and smear; a mixture that is too dry cannot be pressed out from between the teeth. Use a box wrench on the ring gear bolts as a lever to rotate the ring gear several complete revolutions in both directions or until a clear tooth contact pattern is obtained. Certain types of gear tooth contact patterns on the ring gear indicate incorrect adjustment. Incorrect adjustment can be corrected by readjusting the ring gear or the pinion. Contact Pattern Location In general, desirable ring gear tooth patterns must have the following characteristics: Drive pattern on the drive side ring gear well centered on the tooth. Coast pattern on the coast side ring gear well centered on the tooth. Clearance between the pattern and the top of the tooth. No hard lines where the pressure is high. Acceptable Ring Gear Tooth Patterns For All Axles Correct Backlash With a Thinner Pinion Position Shim Required Correct Backlash With a Thicker Pinion Position Shim Correct the Pinion Position Shim That Requires a Decrease in Backlash Correct Pinion Position Shim That Requires an Increase in Backlash

Skulle ta ner kåpan och kika in, innan jag häller i ny olja. Ljudet du beskriver låter mycket udda, samt att det inte där hela tiden. Wiii pinjong lager Woo hjullager Inga dubbla svarta sträck vid burn, diffen

Haloj Har ett missljud från bakaxeln tror jag, kommer vid 40-70kmh sedan tyst. Låter som ett rasselljud...drrrrrrr. Kärran har rullat 8500mil, ska byta olja få se om det hjälper, men kan det vara ett lager eller differential??

Avslutar den här tråden med lösningen. Det var castervinkeln som var helt fel på höger sida. Jag var inte kunnig nog på området men efter att ha pluggat på så jag förstår hur det hänger ihop så blev det plötsligt logiskt. En mätning senare så kunde jag bekräfta att höger framhjul låg flera centimeter fel. när jag lossade bulten så var det precis som att bilen redde ut sig själv, och när jag sen skruvade ihop allt så kändes det nästan helt bra. En hjulinställning senare så fick jag bekräftat att bilen var bra. Man måste dock åka till någon som kan hjulinställning på gamla bilar. Jag var hos Speedy förra året och de sa att allt var bra, men det var det alltså inte.

Hur mycket dom drar beror på hur tung din fot är. Behandlar man dom likvärdigt så drar aldrig en V8 dubbelt mot en V6 elelr Ecoboost Det är bara googla på respektive bil vad de drar WLTP så ser du vad de drar relativt Räkna aldrig lågt utan krasst kan man nog säga mellan 1-1.5 L/mil Skatten beror på bilens ålder. Du har nog tittat på bilar som ligger kvar med Malus......Se på bilar äldre än 3år så är det helt andra siffror Ska du köra året runt är Gen 6 bäst då de har en mycket bättre väghållning med teknik och delad bakaxel. Ser du är focuserad på kostnad och då har du bara 2,3L Ecoboost att välja. Glöm V8 direkt det är minst dubbla kostnaden totalt!  Kanske 3-4ggr mer om man även räknar in försäkringen som slår hårt om du är ung dessutom. Är kostnad prio börja kolla försäkring skulle jag säga och välj en Ecoboost 2,3 som är betydligt billigare både köpa, serva och köra Själva besninnotan är nog inte den största kostnadsskillnaden Men enbart bensinkostnad ser du det är 27% skillnad på stadskörning mellan V8 och Ecoboost Söker skattekostnad gör du på regnummer på Transportsyrelsen...Går på 10sekunder där Försäkring bara ring ditt försäkringsbolag och fråga via regnummer

Parkeringsljus och positionsljus är vanligtvis samma lampa och har ett vitt ljus fram på bilen och rött bak.  

Tack så jättemycket Per för ett bra utförligt svar. Kom inte på något bättre att skriva än muskelbil 😊. Jag läste lite på olika motorer och då kunde v8 dra mer än det dubbla av v6. + hittade några med skyhög skatt över 13000. Gäller det även Gen 6 , har du några förslag på vad jag ska söka på? Filter sökning? Hade även en tanke på att kunna köra den mer eller mindre året runt om jag väljer bort cab,  men tänkte inte alls på vägsaltet då🥶 Känns nästan lite hopplöst hitta en bra bil med tanke på hemmafixare och tidigare skrot.   Ja mycket funderingar o frågor,  men utan frågor får man ju inga svar och jag vill ha en bra bil😊